In the last episode of Himalayan Rides, we (me and my readers) travelled from Gramphoo to Chatru on way to Chandratal. Now we are travelling from Chatru to Batal. Batal is a very important stopover. Once you move ahead of Batal there is a diversion. A road uphill takes you to Kunzum pass and then to Kaza in Spiti valley and another one moves deep inside the Chandra valley towards Chandratal.
Also see: Himalayan Rides : Gramphoo to Chatru
Its a very small stretch in terms of the total ride but still I thought to devote a full post to this, as this one was very important in letting me know what to expect on the way ahead and what I need to do to keep myself better prepared.
Batal is just 31 kilometres from Chatru. Chhota Dara is 17 kms from Chatru and Batal is another 14 kms from there. But this 31 kms journey is no pushover, as it tests your riding skills. The route might not be too tough for four wheelers but it is tough one for bikes, specially the stretch from Chatru to Chhota Dara as at many places you have to ride through boulders and stones. This stretch can take a heavy toll on your vehicles, so keep them fit for it. There are few running streams to be crossed and one or two of them can be tricky for the first timers, more so if you don’t want to put your feet into the water.
Chota Dara: On paper this is a village, but there are only stones and stones around. A PWD pesthouse is there. Then there is also a Spiti Valley Dhaba on the way, which can provide you with some tents to stay and also breakfast and meals.
I had a bit of uneasy experience on water crossing on the stretch. Actually, it was the first tricky one of the trip. I had brought a pair of water and snow proof shoes with me. But in the morning when I was packing the things at Chatru, I found that the sole of my both the shoes have not just only ripped off, but broken into pieces beyond any kind of repair. I actually tried to use the puncture solution to fix it but it only worsened. There was no alternative other than to how them. With heavy heart, I discarded them to dustbin. They had come to me all the way from Geneva, Switzerland.
But now there was an immediate problem for me. Till Chatru, I had not required to cross any stream, hence I didn’t fell any requirement for waterproof shoes and I carried on in my sports shoes. Now, if I required them then I can get a new pair only at Keylong. Till then I had to make sure that I don’t let my sports shoes get wet.
And, I had a testing time just immediately. After I crossed Chota Dara, there was a stream flowing down from the mountains, crossing the road over to Chandra River. It was a tricky one as it was spread wide and it was tough for me to gauge the depth. Though, I was sure that it was not too deep but I had to ensure that I cross it smoothly so that I don’t have to touch me feet anywhere in between. Since I was bit weary of the stones and pebbles under the water, I was bit indecisive for more than a minute on which side to cross the stream. Luckily for me, a truck came from the behind and as it crossed the stream, I got an idea of the actual depth and concentration of stones, making it easier for me to follow and cross, that I finally did. Was I going to be equally lucky everytime till Keylong? Only time will tell.
You can also see the video of this journey and my experience of crossing the stream by clicking below-
But it is definitely thoroughly enjoying as we pass through the beautiful Chandra Valley with snow-capped mountains all around from Indrasan, Deo Tibba, Ali Khan Tibba, White Sail, Papsura peaks and ranges. There is also a trek from Manikaran that brings to Chota Dara by crossing the Sara Umga pass. Stunning beauty around was actually reward for the tough ride.
You can cover this stretch of 31 kms in about three hours, depending on your riding skills as well as on time you give yourself to enjoy the surroundings. Early morning departure from Chatru will give you good time at Batal to eat and enjoy.
Enjoy the journey from the start, read:
Milestones to Ladakh : Manali to Gramphoo
Please feel free to share but not so free to copy and paste!
Amazing shots! Great trip.
Thanks a lot. It was Indrajit. More to come.
WHAT A RIDE! Loved it. Such an adrenaline rush. I was so engrossed in the video. Thanks for this virtual tour. Can’t wait to do this. Your pics are splendid 🙂
Thanks Divsi. Solo trips are always bit more thrilling.
I am planning to trek from Manali to Chatru within 4 days and then take a bus from Chatru to reach Chandratal via Batal. Will I be able to get a hrtc bus from Chatru, I have heard that buses going to Spiti go through Chatru.
Hi Aman, you can certainly get an HRTC bus from Chatru. All buses going from Manali to Kaza or from Keylong to Kaza pass through Chatru. But they will take you to Batal only, as after Batal, they go uphill to Kunzum pass and then to Kaza via Losar. From Batal, you will have to either hitch a ride or trek to Chandratal.
I hope someday I am able to see this in real. I will be on top of the world. Literally.
You will certainly.
Thanks for sharing Click Here
Its my pleasure!
We are planning to visit spiti in the month of june on single Bic.We are 2.
1. Whether waterproof shoes works in water crossing as if water is deep then it will not work i think
2. How to tie a bag. Should we buy saddle bags?
3. Any tools required for Bic like foot pump etc
When you say Spiti than I presume that you will be going to Kaza from Shimla. Is it right? And/or do you plan to go to Chandertal via Kunzum Pass on either onward or return journey? Please confirm, so that I can make my reply more specific.